October Field Trip! Herend and Tihany

Every month, Fulbright organizes an excursion for grantees. It's great that they do that, because it provides a chance to see more of Hungary and also gives us time to reconnect with one another. Yesterday we had our very first excursion, and it was wonderful! (Except that we had to meet at 8 a.m... that was not wonderful. I have grown accustomed to sleeping in.)

We piled into the bus, and drove out to the countryside. Our first stop was Herend, the largest porcelain manufactory in the world. For hundreds of years, Herend has produced fine porcelain pieces with extremely delicate hand-painted designs on it. We were able to take a tour to show us how the pieces are made, from start to finish.

First, talented potters mold the clay into plates, cups, vases, etc. They also add handmade decorations, such as flowers. The piece is fired, glazed, and fired again, giving it the white, translucent look that is characteristic of fine porcelain.

Next, an artist stencils on the design using coal, and begins to paint the colorful patterns that are characteristic of Herend. If just one mistake is made, the piece is destroyed.

The final result is an enormous collection of intricately painted pieces. Breathtaking!

 The pieces at Herend were stunning! I am generally not a details-oriented person, so the idea of painstakingly slaving away over a single piece for several days is mind-boggling to me. It also helped me to understand why the only thing I could afford in the gift shop was a tiny dish, about the size of a half-dollar. Even this small object was hand-painted to perfection, making it worth the $8.

My small memento from Herend. Look at the detail in the butterflies legs and antennae!

The best part of the Herend tour was that, at the end, we got to eat at the restaurant from real Herend porcelain. The food was as delicious as the plates were beautiful! Sweet potato soup, chicken salad, and coffee with rétes (strudel) for desert. Yum!

Tihany Abbey

After eating our fill, we waddled back on to the bus, and made the short journey to the Tihany peninsula of Lake Balaton. The lake is considered the "Riviera of Hungary" and is where many Hungarians spend their summer vacations. No wonder, too -- it's beautiful, with blue-green water surrounded by rolling hills.

The volcanic soil in and around Tihany is particularly good for growing lavender, so everything in the village shops is lavender-scented or made with lavender. Lavender everywhere! We all sat down to enjoy a nice cold lavender beer -- although, as one of my colleagues so eloquently put it, "It really only tastes like lavender when you burp."

The main attraction in Tihany is the Tihany Abbey, a still-functioning benedictine monastery dating back to the mid-11th century. The crypt underneath the abbey houses the grave of King András, one of Hungary's earliest kings. The abbey itself stands at the highest point of the village, looking out over the crystal-clear waters of Lake Balaton.

No place better for a selfie!

After spending some time wandering around Tihany village, it was time to make the two hour drive back to Budapest. After a long and exhausting day, we were tired and hungry, so a bunch of us made plans to go out and eat good ol' American style burgers for dinner. As if giving us a parting gift, on the drive back to Budapest, we got to witness a beautiful sunset from the comfort of the bus.

I am already looking forward to the next field trip!